And it’s not just because of the unseasonably warm weather.
Designers have fully embraced the long look, populating catwalks with long,
lean trousers, maxi dresses and skirts — and even long sweaters and blouses for
day three of New York Fashion Week.
Prabal Gurung took to his roots for his spring collection.
This Nepalese-American combined his two heritages — traditional layering of
utilitarian pieces with androgynous American sportswear. The resulting looks
were posh and full of mixed media that gave every look multiple dimensions. It
was simply gorgeous and made you want to dig a little deeper into each look,
deconstructing.
Speaking of deconstruction, Lacoste was all about
taking apart and rethinking traditional sportif silhouettes. Oversized
sweatshirts and rugby polos were reimagined as tunics, and even dresses. The
numbers on jerseys were blown up and turned into cool graphic elements.
Lightweight jackets, sometimes tied around the wearer’s waist, did double duty.
Cleverly reinterpreted by designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, these jackets
looked like tails, but were worn as belts.
Herve Leger by Max Azria took a trip to Japan, coming back with a new
version of the geisha girl. The signature bandage dresses were wrapped and
draped into sexy versions of the kimono, while prints and graphic sequin
treatments were beautifully inspired by the bold strokes of Japanese
calligraphy. These women were definitely warriors — something “Orange is the New
Black” star Laverne Cox loved. “I want that,” she gasped when a studded neon
number came out.
All about the sun and light in all ways, Mara Hoffman’s spring
collection was easy. Simple, loose looks were interpreted in high-waisted
trousers, tea length and maxi skirts, gauzy dresses and loose leg jumpsuits.
The color was what stood at attention — brights were washed down (perhaps
bleached by the sun) and covered with beautiful embroideries in birds, trees
and celebratory sun motifs.
Jill Stuart’s women were “sassy, salty, naughty, witty and sexy” which
translated to long, lean looks, not unlike what we imagine a poet would wear.
The primarily dusty colors and washed down prints were complemented with skirts
and dresses made of menswear shirting fabrics.
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