Designers: Phillip Lim, Carolina Herrera turn out trends that stay true to their brands at Fashion Week

Everyone plays to their strengths.

3 .1 Phillip Lim (left) and Dennis Basso

Trends come out of each Fashion Week, of course, but it seems that the runways on New York — more than the other fashion capitals — have such well-defined personalities that the brands all stick to their signatures. They ebb and flow with the seasons, but you always know who’s doing what.

Carolina Hererra (left) and Tommy Hilfiger

 Carolina Herrera, for example, creates very pretty clothes made with a subtle refinement that allows the looks to move from a catwalk to a castle. Inspired by water and its movement for fall, Herrera worked in a palette of blues, grays and creams with a dash of fire added in for accent. The best looks flowed, making the spray embroideries, wave-like tweeds and droplet prints undulate like surf.

Team player Tommy Hilfiger installed a full-length football field in the 68th St. Armory to convey his brand of all-American fashion. Called “An American Love Story,” it was influenced by Ali McGraw’s looks in 1970’s “Love Story,” while working iconic football and tailgating looks.

Varsity stripes were common, as were big fluffy coats that would work for game day. The best pieces were the tweeds: bold plaid patterns for cropped trousers, kicky skirts and jackets, faux fur pullovers and very fashion-y leather football jersey dresses.

The New York City skyline backdrop and shiny patent leather catwalk set a sophisticated scene for Donna Karan’s powerful looks. The concept was long and sculptural — these were architecturally designed pieces put together for maximizing the feminine shape.

Pamella Roland fashion show at The Pavilion at Lincoln Center (left) and Thom Browne at Center 548. 

 

Whether a sleek dress, a skirt and blazer, or outerwear, the attention is clearly on the waist, as Karan used raw leather belts by Jason Ross to cinch almost everything à la Katharine Hepburn. There was so much black and gray, but it was made dimensional with bronze and jet beading, or even panels of tulle, metallic chiffon and organza.

Phillip Lim’s 3.1 collection was full of self-reflection, which evolved to his reinvention of suits, coats, a trench and the nice “lady” dress. His pieces included gorgeously folded asymmetrical looks, modern-looking suits, florals and plaids mixed perfectly — and paired with the best shoes and boots we’ve seen this week.

Though it’s fur he’s made his name on, Dennis Basso’s ready-to-wear has come a long way. Designing for the jet-setters and high profile customers who love him (Mary J. Blige sat in the front row), Basso’s fall collection was about the total look, with the furs dyed to match the gowns our faves.

Milly designer Michelle Smith has been dabbling in sculptural shapes for her women, and this fall is no different. Working in vibrant colors and graphic shapes, it comes off as playful but rich at the same time.