Recently, Peter Uzoho joined a group
of tourists to visit and climb the ancient Olumo Rock in Ikija, Abeokuta
North, Ogun State, and reports that the expedition was a pleasurable
experience
It was in the evening of Friday, 18
November, 2016, as scheduled, the announcement went round, reminding us
that it was time for the tour to Olumo Rock.
Of course, you know the
mood that follows such announcement. Joy, laden with anxiety and
anticipation rent the air. For the first time visitors to such natural
resort, it was a pleasurable expedition.
The visit to the rock was part of the
activities lined up for the just concluded 2016 Ake Arts and Book
Festival, which took place at the Ogun State Arts and Cultural Centre,
Kuto, Abeokuta, where literary artists from across Africa converged to
exhibit their works and discuss African issues.
Indeed, the people of Ikija, that is, the
community housing the ancient Olumo Rock, and Abeokuta in general,
really felt our presence as we moved in a long convoy. In their
generosity, other vehicles on the road facilitated our movement as they
had to clear for us to pass by. Passers-by on their part halted their
movement, standing, gazing and smiling at us as we kept going-they
already knew our mission and destination.
Approaching the gate, we saw a curved
overhead brick beam, with the inscription ‘Olumo Rock Tourist Complex’.
Immediately, I felt a sense of accomplishment. So I’m finally here, I
asked, rhetorically, as we alighted from the vehicles. We tried to pass
through but were intercepted by hefty security men who looked stern but
not harmful anyway. Who is your coordinator, the security man
questioned? In the process, Mrs. Lola Shoneyin, Director, Ake Arts and
Book Festival and leader of the trip, appeared and discussed with them.
After getting clearance from the
security, we were then allowed to enter the complex. In excitements, we
could behold Olumo Rock standing tall as if reaching the sky, in its
natural form.
Not quite long, we were beckoned by Mr.
Michael Ogunbiyi, Head of Tourism, Olumo Rock Tourist Complex, who was
to officially welcome and address us. “Ekaabo” (Welcome), he said in
Yoruba language, apparently reminding us, especially the non-Nigerians
that we were in Yoruba land, and so, should welcome us in their own way.
And without hesitation, we responded “O se!”(Thank you) to show that we
were on the same page. At this point, Ogunbiyi gave us a cursory
history of the rock.
“Olumo Rock was a place of refuge for the
old Egba people in 1830,” he tells us, adding “Because of the role it
played in the history of the people, the rock has been deified as a god.
God benevolently molded the rock. God also put an end to the wandering
and strife of the people. So because of this, annually, sacrifices are
performed to the gods. The essence of the sacrifices is to pray that
none of the climbers of Olumo Rock will be a casualty and to also
remember that Olumo Rock played a significant role in the life of the
old Egbe people,” he said.
Continuing he said, “Olumo Rock is also
significant in the sense that it has become a historical and religious
monument. It holds the culture and tradition of the people of Egba,
their values as well as their historical heritage,” assuring that the
visitors would hear more about the rock as they tour the rock site.
Beginning the tour proper, Ogunbiyi
ushered us into the art gallery, a building where different art works
are kept. From there, we moved to the historical cultural gallery where
the portrait of the Alake, the first mosque in Egba, and other landmark
objects are equally kept.
We then proceeded climbing the rock from the base and came to a place called the ‘Olumo Rock main shrine’.
“I’d like to welcome you to the Olumo
Rock main shrine,” he says, smiling. “In the ancient African setting,
you have to understand that some personalities were deified as gods.
Here, we have people like Sango, Ogun, Obatala, and Oya, etc. During
sacrifice, a big black cow is normally presented to the gods. In this
occasion, the priest and custodian of the Olumo Rock shrine, ‘Abore’,
and Alake, the paramount ruler of Egba land, would enter the shrine to
pray for the people of Egba, and for the peace and unity of Nigeria.”
From the main shrine, we were taken to a
place called ‘Abe Okuta’ meaning ‘beneath the rock’. Climbing 120 steps
from the base of the rock takes us to the ‘Lishabi Garden’. Lishabi was
said to be among the most famous warriors that led the Egba people to
this place of refuge in 1830. He was regarded as the chief warrior of
the old Egba people.
“As a mighty and fearless warrior, he
played a significant role during the war. When the people seemed to be
losing faith and were gripped by fear of the enemy, Lishabi fearlessly
stood in front and boosted their morale, assuring them that they would
conquer. Eventually, the Egba people conquered and found the place, and
named it after Lishabi as a reward for his bravery and heroic display.”
At the Lishabi garden, there is a
beautiful tree called the ‘pansheke tree’ which is said to be medicinal.
“The pod of the tree is called ‘Pansheke’. The pod when cut, makes an
onomatopoeic sound ‘shekeshekesheke’ hence calling the tree ‘pansheke’.
The Lishabi garden is also called pansheke garden.”
After the Lishabi garden, we moved up to
the house of Chief Sanni. At this juncture, Ogunbiyi handed us over to
the Tour Guide, Mr. Jeremiah Ayobanmi, who gave us the history of Chief
Sanni. According to him, Chief Sanni was the Osin of Itoko during his
life time. Pointing at the grave of Chief Sanni, Ayobanmi said he died
on 23 January, 1956.
“The Osin chieftaincy title is given to
someone who sits at the left hand side of the king at the palace. When
the government took over the place as a tourist site, they cleared the
monuments to avoid blocking the way for tourists when they want to pass.
The house of Chief Sanni was used as the Egba war time hideout. It was
there the people took refuge for three years,” he explained.
“Egba people were under the old the Oyo
Empire. They wanted independence and went to fight. They consulted
Ifarekun, and he instructed them to go and take refuge at the rock. On
their way to the rock, they met a woman, called Adagba. Adagba was the
one who discovered the rock and invited the Egba people to take refuge
there. The people stayed and ate there for three years. While sojourning
at the rock, they constructed five rooms. Four have collapsed due to
lack of maintenance. The remaining one was where they kept their wives
and children, while the men and the warriors among them would surround
the rock so that their enemies would not gain access to the place.
“On the surface of the rock are six holes
which their wives used to pound and grind food items during the war.
When the war ended in 1833, the people of Egba consulted the Ifarekun to
confirm if they should leave the place for their former destination.
But Ifako asked them to remain there, revealing to them that that was
where God had put an end to their wandering and suffering. So they named
the place Olumo Rock.
“After the war, when the people of Egba
came out from the rock, people were asking them where they hid during
the war, and they, Egba people, responded ‘we hid ourselves under the
rock’. Under or beneath the rock in Yoruba language means Abeokuta,
which is where the Ogun State capital originated from,” he noted.
After a brief stay at the Abeokuta, we
finally made it to the peak of the rock which measures 137 metres above
sea level. Standing atop the rock, we could behold different important
areas in Abeokuta. Looking behind, we could see a river known as the
Ogun River which runs from the north through the south of Ogun State.
Also seen from the top of the rock is the first central mosque called
Kobiti.
Having achieved the feat of climbing to
the peak of Olumo Rock, with strength almost exhausted, Ogunbiyi who had
been up there waiting for us, congratulated us and led us to a song to
conclude our expedition.
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