Styling Your Pocket Square

Before beginning to assemble a wardrobe of killer hankies, it’s imperative to observe the art of the fold. “Pocket squares can look a little bit fussy if they are over-styled.

So how best to navigate this sartorial minefield? Stick to the time-honored folds below and you can’t go far wrong:

Square Fold – The Classic

The square fold, sometimes known as The Presidential, is probably the most easily executed and versatile fold. Just as effective with a formal tuxedo jacket and bow tie as it is with a blazer and knitted necktie, it’s perfect if you’re finding your feet with folds.

Colour-wise, a white pocket square is a classic that every man should have in his collection and it lends itself well to this fold, but a light blue or flecked style both fit the bill too. If you’re strapped for cash, head to the high street for affordable options, which offers a good balance between price and quality.

Image: Charles Tyrwhitt 2015

 Instructions

1. Start with the square fully unfolded.
2. Fold the square to the width of your jacket or blazer pocket (straight down the middle in most cases).
3. Fold from the bottom to form a rectangle that’s the same width as your pocket, and around half an inch longer.
4. Place the folded bottom edge into your pocket, fixing snugly at the base; adjust so that there is only one smooth strip of fabric visible at the top of the pocket.

One-Point Fold – One Corner Up

Not much more taxing than a square fold, but definitely more eye-catching. The one-point fold is versatile enough to be worn for work or play; just base your choice of fabric on the skew of your look.

For something a little more buttoned up (i.e. a classic business or formal outfit), try a crisp cotton style preferably in white or light blue to achieve a sharp triangular shape. For something a little less reserved, plump for a silk pocket square in a bold hue like orange, red, or whatever color best complements that suit you’re wearing folded into a looser one-point.

If you do end up going for silk, then make sure your square is made from top-grade fibers.

Image: Austin Reed SS14

Instructions

1. Start with the square fully unfolded and facing you in such a way that it looks like a diamond rather than a square.
2. Fold the diamond up over itself, then fold the doubled-over corners of the base of the triangle inward as far as is necessary for the folded square to be around the same width as your jacket pocket – it should look like an envelope.
3. Place the folded bottom edges into your pocket and fix snugly in place so that the only thing visible is a triangle at the top of your pocket.

Two-Point Fold – Unique & Sophisticated

Consider this your right of passage as a budding pocket square aficionado. The two-point is a more complex fold that you’ll probably need to practice before you get it right. Well suited to silk squares, the two-points statement-making structure allows you to play a little faster and looser with your choice of color and pattern a bold check complements this fold’s angular lines particularly well.

Image: Burton AW15

Instructions

1. Start with the square fully unfolded and facing you in such a way that it looks like a diamond rather than a square.
2. Fold the diamond up over itself, then very slightly angle the fold so that it’s off-center these two offset corners will be the visible points of your square once it’s in your pocket.
3. Fold the doubled-over corners of the base of the triangle inward as far as is necessary for the square to be around the same width as your jacket pocket.
4. Place the folded square into your pocket (folded rectangular side first) and then adjust so that only two off-centered triangles are visible.

Three-Point Fold – The Pocket Square

Mastered the two-point fold? Ready to take your pocket square proficiency to the next level? Then look no further: the three-point fold, or ‘Crown Fold’ as it’s sometimes known, is a bona fide showstopper.

As the folds are smaller with a three-point, you’ll want to reflect this in your choice of motif, so perhaps opt for a gingham check from the likes of J.Crew or Charles Tyrwhitt so your pattern’s impact isn’t lost.

Alternatively, try a bold plain color style in silk teamed with a dinner jacket rakish sophistication at its finest.

Image: Digel SS15

Instructions

1. Start with the square fully unfolded and facing you in such a way that it looks like a diamond rather than a square.
2. Fold the diamond up over itself, then very slightly angle the fold so it’s off-center these two offset corners will be two of the three visible points of your pocket square once it’s in your pocket.
3. Bring the bottom left-hand side of the triangle up to meet the two points at the top, positioning so that you have three, evenly spaced points.
4. Fold the remaining bottom right-hand corner of the triangle inward so that it’s about the same width as your pocket.
5. Place the folded square (straight side first) into your pocket, adjusting so that there are three points visible.

The Casual Fold

While this is probably the simplest of all the folds, it’s certainly not to be sniffed at. Boasting plenty of bodies, the casual, or ‘puff’ fold, is the prime option for playing with the pattern as it displays the most fabric surface area. Silk  rather than cotton is the ideal choice for achieving the level of volume you require with this one and feel free to go big with your pattern choice too, whether it’s paisley, a sizeable check or polka dot that takes your fancy.

Remember that this is a strong look and so is best suited to smart separates rather than a business suit.

Instructions

1. Start with the square unfolded, but rather than laying flat, pinch it with two fingers at the center so it’s slightly raised with the edges left hanging down.
2. Still pinching the center, use your other hand to gently tug on the loose edges, working to pull the square into a loose tubular shape.
3. Then, grab the raised square about halfway up its length with your other hand, tightening to create a puff at the top.
4. Fold the pocket square in half in such a way that the loose edges are concealed from view, positioned behind the puff.
5. Place fold first into your pocket so that the puff is visible.

Hopefully, these tips and tricks will help you on your journey to pocket perfection. And don’t forget that while the whys and wherefores of wearing pocket squares are good to know, sometimes rules are meant to be broken. So why not push the boundaries a little?