Fashion Week, Day 5: A blitz of glitz at Donna Karan New York and Lela Rose

It’s all glamour and glitz.

In the thick of New York fashion week, designers have upped the posh quotient, bringing on the sparkle, shine, over-the-top silhouettes and all-round elegance.

At first look, Donna Karan New York seemed to be embracing a more natural aesthetic — going completely against Karan’s usual sleek stance. Simple poplin pieces, stretch burlap and brushstroke prints signified an earthy new take. On closer inspection, there was much more to her pieces.

There was an elegance and a luxury in the way her looks were put together, from the hand-embroidered sequins on a printed poplin skirt to the metallic linen woven into a tweed suit. And then there were the oversized hats. It is safe to say this is the season of the oversized hat. Thanks, Pharrell

 

Tommy Hilfiger set a tone by re-creating the cover of the Beatles’ “Sgt. Pepper” album in the Park Avenue Armory. The show started with a jolting drum performance before the models came out wearing Tommy’s interpretation of rock ’n’ roll. Some outfits were literal, some more modern, including sheer, flowing dresses, hip-hugging jeans and colored faux furs. To borrow a phrase, the models were a “higher class of groupie.”

Lela Rose created modern versions of vintage kimonos with 3-D embellishments and voluminous back panels. Blouses were decorated with miniature trains, and dresses had wrapped bodices accented with elegant cutouts. Graphic black-and-white skirts and dresses got the oversized polka-dot treatment, while the kimono itself reemerged as a black, shrunken knit shell, an inky blue floral coat dress and a textured jacquard jacket in brilliant cerulean.

Dennis Basso knows fabulous, from his well-coiffed front row — Ivana Trump, Nikki Haskell, Rosanna Scotto, Hoda Kotb, Jada Pinkett Smith and Garcelle Beauvais — to the styled furs for which he’s famous. Inspired by upscale Mediterranean resorts of the 1960s, he showed such gems as an opulent white mink, alligator and chinchilla coat, an olive gator and sable jacket over a silver romper and luxe textured rose gold metallic jacquard pieces. He’s unapologetically glam — like his most famous front-row friend for so many years, Joan Rivers, to whom he dedicated the show.

 

Phillip Lim’s offerings for his 3.1 Phillip Lim collection were inspired by the “intimacy of bedroom interiors,” which meant sheer materials combined with gorgeous embroideries and more bodied fabrics for shape.

Milly’s Michelle Smith was all about shaped sheer for spring. The catwalk was awash in wispy organza mesh that was sculpted into bell-like skirts, dolman-sleeved jackets and trapeze tops. She exercised a r —efined hand, however, layering everything over bralettes and short shorts for a sporty look.

Alice & Olivia was over-the-top fun all the way. It was classic glamour in the shape of A-line dresses, jeweled jackets, beaded shrugs and evening gowns galore.

 

Angel Sanchez brought a bright palette to his evening wear, with lots of flowing, draped fabrics and some hints of skin.